An old viennese gastropub (Wirtshaus), converted into a small restaurant with excellent yet very individual cooking: Since it’s opening in 2015 Pramerl and the Wolf has been acclaimed a lot. Some time ago it was awarded with one Michelin star – a well deserved one.
Chef Wolfgang Zankl was actually a businessman who changed into gastronomy later in his career. He learned at the wonderful Mraz&Sohn – and evidently took some of the creative spirit with him. You can see his overwhelming love for detail and strange but enlightning combinations in his dishes. But first things first.
The restaurant is situated in a quiet street, in the summer we sat outside and enjoyed the nice wheather. The sommelier/service is a one man show, casual and nice. I didn’t always agree on his wine pairing, but enjoyed his somehow unusual wine choices. Pramerl and the Wolf offers only one menu, from 5-7 courses, many of which are served by the chef himself. Since there is not much personnel, the dinner tends to take some time – so be sure to bring a good buddy with you (and to brief your baby sitter).
Then we started into a wonderful evening:
Kombu | Quail egg | Salt lemon | cauliflower 
Carrot | Buttermilk | Caramelized milk protein 
Eggplant | Miso | Hazelnut | Marigold 
Radish | Beef lardo | Rosemary 
Crab | Cucumber | Elderflower 
Zucchini | Almond | Sheep cheese 
Coregon | String bean | Cocos | Chicken skin 
Smoked oyster | Browned butter | Jalapeno | Passion fruit 
Cod | Melon | Tomato 
Smoked melon with Baccala-foam 
Rocket | Potatoes | Yolk 
Cream of bone marrow | Herring roe 
Old milk cow | Bone marrow | Salad 
Minced meat of old cow with fermented pepper 
Goat camembert | Mushroom | Walnut 
Raspberries and roses 
White chocolate | Granny Smith apple | Chervil 
Vanilla | Taggiasche olive | Strawberry 
Mini „Magnum“ ice cream
I really love how Zankl works with fruits – it is never this 80ties „putting ananas on pizza“ thing, but always a very thoughtful connection of taste and/or texture: The smoked melon with baccala foam was a perfect example for this. The sweetness and smoke of the melon was a perfect match to the intense saltiness of the baccala. He also has a very good sense for texture, giving the dishes a good structure. Vegetables often play the main role which come to like more and more. In this case there were a lot of seasonal baby veggies. My personal highlight was „Minced meat of old cow with fermented pepper“ – a perfect comfort food food, very meaty with a complex spiciness. I like his salty dishes better than his desserts – for me personally the creative combinations don’t always work out so well with them.
Pramerl and the Wolf offers really great cooking for a very reasonable price – a definitive recommendation!
Visit: June 2018
Michelin stars at time of visit: *
Budget: 130€/person (including wine pairing)
Location: 6,5/10
Service: 6,5/10
Food: 7,5/10
