Vegetarian pleasures at Tian

Dashi: carrot my Michi Bauer, rose, sesame

I am most definetely not vegetarian. But as the Vienna-based and vegetarian restaurant Tian was awarded a Michelin star, it interested me a lot. Being (back then) the fourth vegetarian restaurant to carry a Michelin star the cuisine of head chef Paul Ivic should be worth a visit.

Tian is located in the heart of Vienna, near the famous Ringstraße. The interior is rather spartanic, with lot of grey tones and modern arrangements of plants. I did not exactly feel like home but it was comfortable.

The restaurant offers a strictly vegetarian menu with highly interesting dishes. Since my visit some time has passed, it is interesting what stayed in my memory…

Amuse (not noted)
Amuse (not noted)
Bread, butter, oil
Bread, butter, oil
Amuse: soup
Amuse: soup
Golden bed: corn, coffee, beet
Golden bed: corn, coffee, beet
BBQ: bell pepper, marshmallow, coal
BBQ: bell pepper, marshmallow, coal
Potatoes: egg by Paolo Parisi, white alba truffle
Potatoes: egg by Paolo Parisi, white alba truffle

I remember this being a very comforting combinatino. Potato, egg and truffle…match made in heaven 🙂

Reduced: kohlrabi, mushroom
Reduced: kohlrabi, mushroom

Here I loved the contrast between the meaty texture and earthy taste of the musrooms in contrast to the fresh and crunchy kohlrabi.

Dashi: carrot my Michi Bauer, rose, sesame
Dashi: carrot my Michi Bauer, rose, sesame

For me, this was the most outstanding dish of the whole menu: Ivic recreated the experience of Japanese dashi by using different carrots in different preparations. First of all it really tasted like dashi, but also the play of textures from creamy to firm was just like you would expect from a perfect japanese dashi with tofu. Deeply impressing.

Munich Wies'n Gaudi: cabbage sprouts, pretzel, oyster mushrooms
Munich Wies’n Gaudi: cabbage sprouts, pretzel, oyster mushrooms

This was as awkward as nice: A perfect recreation of a Bavarian „Weisswurst“ meal – a sausage made of mushrooms, crispy pretzel dumpings and crunchy cabbage, bound together by a light mustard sauce.

Münster: cherry, voatsiperifery pepper, cherry leaves
Münster: cherry, voatsiperifery pepper, cherry leaves
Truffle pasta
Truffle pasta

Just perfect pasta – as you can guess from the picture.

Autumn drive: jerusalem artichoke, perl onion, chickweed
Autumn drive: jerusalem artichoke, perl onion, chickweed

A very interesting plate that I remember very well, since the jerusalem artichoke with it’s meaty texture was an excellent protagonist for a main course.

Raw milk cheese: Maitre Antony, Jumi
Raw milk cheese: Maitre Antony, Jumi
Elder triology: berry, flower, shrub
Elder triology: berry, flower, shrub
Sacher uprooted: Nyangbo chocolate, apricot, carrot
Sacher uprooted: Nyangbo chocolate, apricot, carrot
Chocolate cigar
Chocolate cigar

On our evening the service had some potential – at some point in the evening the waiters just started to ignore us and didn’t offer explanations for the dishes and the wine any more.

The meal was amazing, it was really interesting to see what can be done without using any animal products. The only thing I was pondering afterwards was the price structure: Since „only“ vegetables are used the menu was a bit overpriced in my opinion compared to menus using more cost-intensive ingredients. However I liked the distinct approach to fine dining that makes Tian most definetely worth visiting.

Visit: November 2015
Michelin stars at time of visit: *
Budget: 175€/person
Location: 6/10
Service: 6/10
Food: 7/10

Timon
Timon
Spracharbeiter. Kommunikator. Sprecher. Trainer. Historiker. Leidenschaftlicher Koch. Foodie.